Ou Seathong sells one
of the most expensive foods in the world: Swallow Birds Nest. At her shop on
Street 182 in Phnom Penh, she sorts edible Swallow Birds Nest on the shelves.
Hundreds of years old, the Chinese delicacy is made of the congealed saliva of
Asian Swallow Birds Nest.
Business had been good, with Chinese tourists coming to her shop and buying
the nests as souvenirs before going home. But a year ago, the Chinese
government put a spoke in her wheel – a ban on imports of Cambodian Swallow
Birds Nest.
“My clients, the majority of them, came from China,” she said. “Commonly, in
Cambodia there are not many people who know about Swallow Birds Nest, but it is
well-known in China and Vietnam,” she said.
“Now Chinese authorities banned the import and it is difficult to find a
market.”
It’s still some of the most expensive spit around, but the ban has caused
prices to drop, with Cambodian Swallow Birds Nest costing around $1,500, and
imports from Malaysia being worth up to $2,000 per kilogram. In the Chinese
tourist heyday, the Cambodian nests went for around $2,200 per kilogram.
Processed into food or beverages, the white nests and red nests are
supposedly rich in nutrients and believed to have health benefits.
“The majority of my clients are pregnant women and elderly who need more
nutrition,” Seathong said.
She added that a Swallow Birds Nest can last for up to four years before
losing quality if preserved well.
 |
Ou Seathong at her Phnom Penh shop where she sells edible bird saliva, considered a delicacy in Cambodia, China and Vietnam. The product, however, isn’t selling well since China banned imports last year. Pha Lina |
Before operating the shop, around seven or eight years ago, she bought some
nests from other local raisers and some which were imported from Malaysia.
The motivation for Seathong to start the business stemmed from her Chinese
parents, who used to cook food from the nests when she was young. At the time,
prices soared to $5,000 per kilogram.
But following her decision to start a shop, more and more people built
houses for birds to collect their nests, and prices plummeted before being
resuscitated by the Chinese tourists.
She said that even today, the number of bird-nest raisers is increasing,
along the coastline, National Road 5 as well as in Phnom Penh. Generally,
however, the Swallow Birds Nests collected in coastal areas are of better
quality.
Seathong’s relatives live in Kampot and have three houses for birds to live
in and make nests. They collect about eight kilograms for three months, and get
the remaining supplies from Koh Kong and Preah Sihanouk provinces.
Because of the difficulties she faces today, Seathong said she does not
intend to operate a processing factory for producing beverages from the nests
because it’s expensive.
“It is high-class product,” she said. “Right now it is difficult to sell.”
Big business in Swallow Birds Nest in Myanmar seaside town
The cries of amorous Swallow Birds Nest echo around the dark room, an
unlikely gold mine for traders in southern Myanmar, who are cashing in on the
rising demand for the edible nests from China’s growing middle class.
Dozens of buildings dedicated to the tiny birds have sprung up around the
seaside town of Bokpyin in recent years, their grey concrete structures
towering over the humbler wood and brick homes of the town’s human inhabitants.
Every morning and evening, the air is filled with high-pitched twitterings
blasting from loudspeakers, that draw thousands of the swallow-like birds home
to roost.
Edible Swallow Birds Nests have become one of the main industries in the
town, which is traditionally known for producing betel nut (areca nut), a
chewable stimulant, as well as rubber and palm oil.
Traders can charge around US$2,000 (RM8,591) a viss (equivalent to 1.63kg) for
the tiny nests – more than the average person in Myanmar earns in a year.
“We started making man-made Swallow Birds Nest (houses) 10 years ago,” said
Paing Set Aung, who owns one of the buildings where hundreds of Swallow Birds
Nest make their homes in the rafters.
“Initially, there was a house where the birds came to roost by themselves.
After that, people started to construct man-made bird houses.”
Most of the tiny white nests, which are made from solidified bird spit, are
sold to neighbouring China.
Long considered the reserve of the country’s wealthy elite – who ate them at
lavish banquets – they are increasingly in demand from middle-class consumers.
Today, the global edible Swallow Birds Nest industry is estimated to be
worth US$5bil (RM21.5bil), most of it produced in South-East Asia.
Myanmar’s exports have surged since 2011 – the year the former junta handed
over power to a quasi-civilian government.
“Swallow Birds Nest are one of the main businesses in Bokpyin,” said local
Lin Aung, who built his first house five years ago and is now on his third.
“China is the top buyer of Swallow Birds Nest here.”
‘Caviar of the East’
Once across the border, the nests are transformed into one of the most
expensive foods in the world.
When boiled in water, they dissolve into a gelatinous gloop which is then
made into desserts, or drunk as a soup or a tonic that is said to prolong life
and improve strength.
There is little peer-reviewed scientific data showing that nests have proven
medicinal properties. Nutritional studies have shown the saliva to be mainly
made up of protein, followed by carbohydrates.
In Shanghai, restaurants sell this “the caviar of the East”, as it is known,
for hundreds of dollars a bowl.
Many of them cater specifically to women, who believe the nests can help
smooth the complexion and make them look younger.
The tonic is also said to help during pregnancy – one of Shanghai’s high-end
spas solely for mothers-to-be even has its own restaurant, and sells gift bags
for as much as RMB3,900 (RM2,431).
Shoppers can also order the products online, including candied Swallow Birds
Nests from Myanmar to be eaten as sweets.
“In China, the Swallow Birds Nest has been a really famous and much-loved
traditional tonic since ancient times,” Zhang Yi told AFP, speaking from her
NestCha restaurant.
“It is mild and a little sweet. It is good for women, the elderly, children
and men.”
Growing industry
These luxury products are a far cry from the nests’ humble beginnings on the
islands of Myanmar’s southern archipelago.
To begin with, they were harvested on the region’s many islands by daring
climbers, who risked life and limb scaling treacherous cliffs without any
safety equipment.
For years, the industry was dominated by the Union of Myanmar Economic
Holdings Ltd (Umehl), a sprawling conglomerate controlled by the military
elites that ran Myanmar for half a century.
But, as in much of South-East Asia, production has increasingly moved into
urban centres.
Locals in the southern city of Myeik started building houses to attract the
birds decades ago; later, production spread to Bokpyin and nearby Kawthaung.
There are now more than 130 houses devoted to the Swallow Birds Nest dotted
around the region, according to state media.
Competition for space in Bokpyin between Swallow Birds Nest producers and
tourism developers has seen land prices surge to as high as US$75,000
(RM322,000) a plot in the downtown area – on par with parts of the commercial
capital Yangon.
Nests are normally harvested three or four times a year, but traders can
collect them as often as once a month if they are in need of cash.
Producer Aung Kyaw Moe said that because the swiftlet populations naturally
increase as the birds become accustomed to their homes, the industry will only
grow in the coming years.
“They are like humans, because they come and live here after they get to
know the place,” he told AFP, standing next to his tall wooden bird house in
Myeik. — AFP/Athens Zaw Zaw & Matthew Smith